An Experience at Michelin Star Atul Kochhar's Rang Mahal

The scene when you walk into this upscale Indian restaurant at the JW Marriott Marquis in Dubai is dark and mysterious and really sets the mood for the dinner to follow.  The red and black decor is appropriate as  it directly correlates to Rang Mahal, the Red Fort in Delhi after which the restaurant is named.  On this particular evening we were in for a treat as we prepared for the ultimate gastronomical adventure by none other than Michelin star chef Atul Kochhar, an event that was not to be missed!

We were whisked gracefully into the dining room, and conveniently sat with a clear view to the kitchen where we could watch all the chefs in action creating their culinary magic right before our eyes.  The waitstaff was eager and ready to share their passion with us as they gingerly described our menu choices.  Although they recommended the 9 course tasting menu, my guest and I saw a few items from the regular menu that caught our eye. We went ahead with the a la carte options, but requested a tasting portion so we could try the range of delicacies prepared at the hands of this skilled chef.

The seared scallop pictured below is a dish that I was mildly familiar with.  Featured at this past years Taste of Dubai festival, I remember trying out these little gems accompanied by the cauliflower puree and shaved cauliflower tendrils on top.  The pairing of these two items together is one of my favorite flavor combinations and one I have created a recipe for myself as well (Seared Scallops with Curried Cauliflower Puree).  Atul's version with the velvety smooth puree and perfectly seared scallop goes into the books as one of the loveliest executions of the modern Indian cuisine he has created.

My absolute favorite item of the evening was the deep-fried softshell crab known as "Karara Kekada" on the menu.  Coated with seasoned rice flour and paired with an apple and peanut salad along with a cilantro aioli, this dish personifies the art of Atul's genius in the kitchen.  A dish that is most simple in  presentation, but communicates so much character with its combination of ingredients as well as technique.  It's one of those items you would  specifically go back for and would never disappoint as the shining star for the evening (as crab always is).

From the mains I really enjoyed the sea bass "meen moilley", which is another one of Atul's signature items. The beautifully cooked seabass with crispy skin and all sits on top of mustard tempered potatoes swimming in a turmeric and coconut curry sauce.  Addicting to say the least, this gorgeous dish packs a punch of flavor and texture, you will be licking your plate clean with any morsel of naan or roti you can find.    

 For dessert, we went with the classic chocolate delice which came highly recommended by the staff, the rich chocolate ganache was smooth in texture, surprisingly sweet with slightly bitter undertones.  It was sprinkled with some light spices and and edible floral garnish to create a playful garden like display.  I actually rather enjoyed the chocolate paired with the fennel ice cream which was served with the chocolate peanut butter tube dessert, also a featured item at this restaurant as well as the Michelin star Benares in the UK.

Atul Kochhar's approach to Indian cuisine is innovative and inspiring.  I met him for the first time a couple years back, initially at a tasting held at the World Trade Center Tower, following that was an interview at Taste of Dubai 2012.  After meeting this charming and talented chef, I knew there was something special about him as well as his culinary delights.  His career accomplishments go on and on, but one thing's for sure, he has made a mark for himself and his modern Indian cuisine in Dubai as well as the UK. For more on my one on one with Atul check out the following Blog Post.....

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The Zespri Challenge - Kiwi and Coconut Custard Pie

       

 A couple of days ago I was sent a box of green and gold Kiwis by Zespri Arabia. Delicious fruit delivered right to my door! Who could ask for anything more!  This gave me the opportunity to do what I do best and experiment in the kitchen with them. I made salsas, marinades, and even frozen kiwi slices as a lovely drink garnish. So far this has been my favorite, a kiwi and coconut custard pie! Here is the recipe I put together based on some research, comparing recipes, and personal taste.

Ingredients for the Pie Crust (Taken from the Pioneer Woman website-The Perfect Pie Crust)

• 1-1/2 cup Crisco (vegetable Shortening)
• 3 cups All-purpose Flour
• 1 whole Egg
• 5 Tablespoons Cold Water
• 1 Tablespoon White Vinegar
• 1 teaspoon Salt

Instructions

In a large bowl, with a pastry cutter, gradually work the Crisco into the flour for about 3 or 4 minutes until it resembles a coarse meal. In a small bowl, beat an egg with a fork and then pour it into the flour/shortening mixture. Add 5 tablespoons of cold water, 1 tablespoon of white vinegar and 1 teaspoon of salt. Stir together gently until all of the ingredients are incorporated.

Separate the dough into thirds. Form 3 evenly sized balls of dough and place each dough into a large Ziploc bag. Using a rolling pin, slightly flatten each ball of dough (about ½ inch thick) to make rolling easier later. Seal the bags and place them in the freezer until you need them. (If you will be using it immediately it’s still a good idea to put in the freezer for about 15 to 20 minutes to chill.)

When you are ready to use the dough to make a crust, remove from the freezer and allow to thaw for 15 minutes. On a floured surface roll the dough, starting at the center and working your way out. (Sprinkle some flour over top of the dough if it’s a bit too moist.) If the dough is sticking to the countertop use a metal spatula and carefully scrape it up and flip it over and continue rolling until it’s about ½ inch larger in diameter than your pie pan.

With a spatula, lift the dough carefully from the surface of the counter into the pie pan. Gently press the dough against the corner of the pan. Go around the pie pan pinching and tucking the dough to make a clean edge.

Put the pie plate with the dough back into the fridge to chill for 30 minutes. 

Preheat the oven to 218 C (or 425 F) 

When you're ready to bake remove the pie plate from the fridge and cover with parchment paper lined (covering the dough completely) with beans or rice on top. Remember to press the beans/rice into the edges and bake for 10 minutes. Remove the parchment paper, brush with an egg wash and bake for another 10-15 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from the oven and allow it to cool on a wire rack.  

After you are done with the pie crust, you start on the custard filling.  I took inspiration for this recipe from Martha Sewart,  it was quick, easy, and delicious!

Ingredients 

• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1/3 cup cornstarch
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1 cup whole milk
• 1 can (14 ounces) coconut milk
• 4 large egg yolks

 

While crust is baking, place a fine-mesh sieve over a large bowl; set aside. In a medium saucepan (off heat), whisk together sugar, cornstarch, and salt. Gradually whisk in whole milk, making sure to dissolve cornstarch. Whisk in coconut milk and egg yolks.

Whisking constantly, cook over medium heat until the first large bubble sputters, about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to low; cook, whisking constantly, 1 minute. Remove pan from heat; immediately pour custard through sieve into bowl. 

Pour custard from bowl into cooled crust; smooth top with a rubber spatula. Refrigerate until chilled, at least 4 hours (or loosely covered, up to 1 day).

 

The last step is the garnish for the pie and where those lovely little fruits come into play.  I first peeled 2 of each gold and green kiwis, then sliced thin rounds of all four. Alternating colors place them one on top of the other in a large circular ring around the the outer edge of the pie.  Next place them on the inner ring of the pie until the entire top of the pie is covered. Slice and ENJOY! (best if it's served the same day)

Oberoi Dubai's Brunch with a Twist served Tapas Style

The presence of 5-Star luxury hotels and glamorous over the top brunch displays are all too common in Dubai.  But when we entered the all day dining restaurant Nine7One (cleverly named after the UAE country code) at the brand new Oberoi hotel in Dubai, a new type of buffet has graced the market.  The concept is steering away from the norm and focusing in on small bites from an eclectic mix of International cuisine.

It's difficult to find a starting point because there was so much to choose from.  But hotel Executive Chef Dirk Haltenhof had a few tricks up his sleeve, and our attention immediately transferred over to him as he performed a culinary feat for us this afternoon.  Not only is Chef Dirk passionate about the food, but as well as the technique behind it.  That being said Dirk gave into his curiosities and featured some molecular gastronomy on the menu.  Pictured below is an example of some of the experiments on display including a lemon soda sphere on top of caramel soil. The preparation was fascinating and it was interesting to the eye, but they are somewhat of an acquired taste.  

Just across from the molecular gastronomy station was the tower of freshly made pastries and rolls.  This was right up my alley and I have to say the croissants were beautifully executed.  A crispy exterior filled with buttery layers of deliciousness, I managed to eat the whole thing and still saved room for more food.  Amongst some of the other baked goods was a cinnamon roll, pain au chocolate, doughnuts, danish and fruits tarts to name a few.  

After my first round of food, I realized I needed a bit more of a strategy if I was going to make it to every station in the restaurant.  I paced myself and took a gander at what stood out of the ordinary and decided to to start there.  My eyes were immediately drawn to the Japanese section where the food was meticulously being prepared with precision and symmetry.  Pictured below are Japanese Takoyaki, a ball shaped snack filled with octopus, tempura, pickled ginger and green onions. Not only did they look super cool, but they also tasted DELICIOUS! One of my favorites of the day, and a reason to go back to Nine7One restaurant for brunch, as they are one of the few places serving this item in town. 


Next up on the "out of the ordinary" list was the compressed watermelon and gazpacho bottles.  Presented in the multi-tiered ice sculpture both of these items stood out amongst the rest. The gazpacho was refreshing and just the right portion size.  Although the touch of cream is not something I am used to when enjoying gazpacho, it still kept the texture and taste light really highlighting the key ingredients, tomato and cucumber.  The compressed watermelon on the lower tier of the ice sculpture almost resembled ahi tuna.  The compression technique not only intensifies the flavor, but also the color and changes the texture slightly.  This particular watermelon was paired with fresh mint prior to compression, which allowed the herb to infuse into the fruit.  This was an innovative and fun idea, and a great talking point for several of the guests and staff. 


Also available amongst the starters were Indian, Spanish, Thai, and, Arabic specialties including the following:

Guindilla (pickled green pepper from La Rijoa)

Calamari con chorizo (squid rings and beef chorizo salad with parsley)

Sardina blanco con aceituna (white sardine and green olive skewers)

Rice paper rolls with tamarind

Prawns with green papaya salad

Herb goat cheese and grilled pepper roulade

Compressed water melon with mint

Oyster with pickled onions and lime

Balsamic glazed figs with mint

Babaganoush cornet

Gazpacho con Ajo Blanco

Ceviche of king fish

Dahi kachori

Dohkla with green apple

Fried idli with gun powder and coconut chutney

If that wasn't enough for starters the mains course was even more extravagant!  The item that caught my eye was the Roasted Tomahawk Steak and Tenderloin sitting on top of colorful vegetables at a carving station.  The meat had been beautifully presented, but was just slightly over done for my liking.  The flavors were spot on and the quality of the cuts was spectacular.    
Nine7One has tapped into the idea of creating a memorable meal by tasting bits and pieces of dishes from all types of cuisines.  The concept is not unheard of, but to execute it the right way is tricky.  This is one of the plates I came back to the table with (I went back for a total of 5 rounds including 1 for dessert).  Starting from the top: 1. Merlot braised octopus with polenta, 2. Seven Hour Braised Wagyu Short Ribs, 3. Seared Tuna, 4. Quail Egg Bruschetta, 5. Sliced Tomahawk Steak, and in the center a 6. Roasted Lamb Slider. All were tasty, but my favorite out of this plate was item number two.
Although the dessert displays looked enticing the thought had barely crossed my mind with so much of the savory on offer.  What Dirk did go out of his way to show me was the milk and white chocolate fountain located smack in the middle of the buffet area.  He was proud to show off his dual chocolate contraption, and said they were special ordered from the UK.  Served alongside the fountain were mandarin marshmallows, fresh fruit skewers, meringues, and chocolate truffles.  But the list for sweets goes on and on to include:

Mango choux

Raspberry baked yogurt

Caramelized banana and milk chocolate mousse

Philadelphia cheesecake with basil macerated strawberries

Apricot seradura

Lemon tart with lychee panacotta

Crème caramel

Chocolate and pecan nut brownie

Hazelnut and berry stack

Red velvet cake in glasses

Tiramisu

Gajar ka halwa

Gulab jamun

Om ali

Aysh al sarayh

In addition to the cuisine, the staff also needs to be recognized for their hard work and attention to detail.  They were the most engaging of hotel staff I have come across and really went above and beyond the call of duty.  The women were dressed in bright royal blue and always seemed to have the sweetest smile across their face.  The men wore traditional black slacks, white shirts and formal black vests, equally as smiley and efficient as they took  drink orders and cleared the tables. 

The Oberoi Tapas brunch will give you something to think about days after you've experienced it.  With so many unique items and styles of presentation, it's difficult to choose one favorite item.  The brunch is available every Friday in Nine7One from 12.30pm to 4.00pm from 30 August onwards. They have few different packages available. 

Tapas Brunch

270 AED / person including soft drinks

380 AED / person including soft drinks, house wines, spirits and Prosecco

550 AED / person including all above and Champagne

Head down to the brand new Oberoi hotel in Business Bay which belongs to one of the most decorated hotel chains in the world for an experience you will cherish for years to come!

It's time to get crackin' at Claw!

Last Thursday night my friend Rosemin and I had no idea what we were walking into.  Loud music, a mechanical bull, and an all around fun vibe, Claw has to be one of the liveliest places in town! Located in the heart of Dubai on level 2 of Souk Al Bahar, this crab shack transports you out of Dubai and into a good ole' southern tradition. 

We sat down at our comfortable table in the corner (right next to a small stage) covered in a classic red and white checkered table cloth. As we gazed at the boisterous crowd, I thought to myself, what a GREAT concept.  It was refreshing to see a place with a casual aesthetic where jeans and t-shirts are the norm.  A well needed change form all the higher-end DIFC joints, Dubai is now finally catering to it's residents who appreciate value for money as well as a trendy bar scene.

Our friendly waitress was all smiles as she approached the table and greeted us.  No doubt she was genuinely excited to represent the establishment and was beaming with pride.  Her training was impeccable as she understood how to handle her guests.  Giving us the time we needed to make our decisions as well as suggesting key menu items which is always important whether you are new or a regular customer at any restaurant. My guests and I were so pleased with our experience until this point, we took our time deciding on our meal for the evening.

My favorites from our selection of starters were the jumbo buffalo prawns with a blue cheese dipping sauce (pictured below) which came highly recommended by our waitress .  This item reminded me of my college days when Buffalo wings were a staple part of a weekly meal plan. My palette has developed considerably since then, but after one taste of these, memories of my obsession with this bar snack came rushing back.

The other memorable item from the appetizers were the crab cakes.  Made the way they should be with jumbo lump crab meat, these pan seared patties were an especially tasty treat.  The chipotle mayonnaise it was accompanied by needed a little more heat or perhaps even a corn relish or mango salsa to give it a fresh touch. 

With so much on offer, we again had to go with our waitresses suggetions for the house specialties.  This heaping mound of crab legs pictured below is called the "Crabapalooza" and contains a mix of Blue Crab, Mud Crab, Snow Crab, and King Crab.  Before we could tuck into this monstrous portion, the waitress prepped us then provided us with the right tools to go into battle: bibs, mallets, crackers, and crab forks.  She even gave us some helpful tips on how to attack the dish, then left us to our own devices.

We went at it without a care in the world, and although I had crab juices dripping down my arms and probably some in my hair, I enjoyed every minute of it.  The succulent crab meat had just the right amount of seasoning and paired with the drawn butter, lemon, and corn on the cob, this was my crab heaven!   

Another popular menu item were the Baja Fish Tacos.  Beer battered and fried then served up in a soft tortilla shell with the regular fixings it was a fiesta of flavors in my mouth.  I only wish there could have been extra fresh guacamole and perhaps a dash or two of hot sauce (other than Tabasco) which would have completed it for me. 
 My guests were also intrigued by the sizzling fajitas which you could hear and smell throughout the restaurant.  This is another one of those nostalgic food items I used to enjoy way back in the high school days, and have seen recently making a comeback! The quality of the meat was outstanding from the juicy chicken pieces which were perfectly charred to the beautifully cooked tender pieces of steak. Served with the standard accompaniments including fresh salsa, sour cream, guacamole, lettuce, and the soft corn tortilla shells kept in the warmer, all that remained was the assembly. 

After the crab fest we wiped ourselves clean with these customized wipes provided to us by our lovely waitress.  (A nice little touch and proof that details matter when it comes to the food service business). At this point we knew we would not be able to leave Claw without a tasting from the delectable desserts on the menu.....

My first pick was the Key Lime Pie, a southern favorite with origins linking it back to late 19th Century Florida.  It's a light but tasty dessert, and stood out as the best option after such a filling meal.  The graham cracker crust was crumbly enough to stand up against the tart and creamy filling. 

The dessert item below is one you could call indulgence at it best.  Yet, another menu item that you often find at popular All-American eateries, was now available right here in Dubai!  Simply called the "banana burrito", it was so much more than that. The picture really says it all with banana and chocolate deep fried in a crispy shell covered in caramel sauce and served a la mode, I guess its safe to say the word diet never crossed anyone's minds that night.  Claw is a necessary addition to the culinary scene of Dubai. The entire experience from entering the restaurant to (if you are brave) riding the mechanical bull is focused on the customer.  You feel well taken care of and appreciate the effort put forth not only by the staff, but the owners and managers that understood their was a niche in the market.Check out claw if you are looking for a fun casual night out with some solid southern comfort food.  Calorie counting is against the rules at this crab shack, so be sure to bring your appetites!

 

La Serre, Not Just a Modern French Bistro..... a Lifestyle!

I am at a loss for words on where to begin this post.  The experience I had at *La Serre located in downtown Dubai at the new and improved Vida (formerly Qamardeen) hotel last week went way beyond my culinary expectations. Izu Ani, the executive chef and owner of this restaurant concept is one of the most hard working and creative individuals I have ever met. He has brought forward a new standard for food and beverage in this city, and plans to keep out doing himself every opportunity he gets. 

 *The meaning of the word La Serre is taken from the 12th century Medieval Latin word communia: a large gathering of people sharing a common life.

 Izu has been trained in classic French cuisine but does so with a touch of modern elegance.  It's apparent when you step foot into this 2 story Bistro//Bar/Boulangerie/Cafe concept. He puts his stamp on everything he can get his hands on, and really takes pride with his current endeavor, a partnership he has ventured on with Dubai real estate giants Emaar.  Although I see many parallels between La Serre and his former employer, La Petite Maison, Izu says that after 25 years of experience in the industry, Mediterranean/French Niciose cuisine is his passion and signature trademark.

To begin the evening we were presented with these farm fresh carrots, a wedge of lemon and sea salt.  A simple and refreshing way to start a meal.  As we nibbled and perused the menu, there were far too many dishes to choose from.  Each menu item was better than the next, with ingredients that had been imported from the best resources across the globe.  Although it's  not necessarily environmentally friendly or sustainable, the commitment to providing a top notch meal was all that mattered here. 

On this particular evening, my guests and I ate to our hearts content.  Each menu item delivered on its promise, but I have only highlighted the best of the best here (and only what I could capture on camera before everyone started digging in)

The tuna carpaccio was just at should be, lightly seared in the outside with an almost smokey essence and beautifully rare all throughout the inside.  Seasoned to perfection with gorgeous citrus notes,  the light crunch of the pine nuts, and touch of micro greens, how could you not like this dish!

The octopus with a shaved fennel, roasted red pepper and mixed greens salad was a wonderful display of textures and freshness.  The octopus itself was tender with just the right amount of flame grilled char that complimented the sweet natural undertones of this delicious seafood item.  The pairing with the shaved fennel topped with the gremolata, allowed all the ingredients to pop, no doubt this was a popular item at the table that evening.  

Served in glass bowl submerged in ice, the elegantly presented steak tartare was topped with a lovely little crispy quail egg.  Typically I enjoy the runny raw egg yolk with my raw meat in the classic version of tartare to enhance the flavor of the ingredients and add a velvety texture.  I have to say the quality of the hand cut tenderloin (showing plenty of marbling) with capers and onions that really packed a punch was enough to prove this dish was worthy of standing against the original. 

Served on a crispy flat bread, this simple onion tart with creme fraiche and sliced cherry tomatoes was really the easiest dish to enjoy.  Cut into pizza like triangles, nobody shied away from using their hands and tucking into this treat at this upscale restaurant, even if it was a fine dining faux pas.  The dollops of rich creme fraiche  sweet cherry tomatoes evenly space around the round tart on top of the caramelized onions was a balance of sweet and savory fit for any palette to enjoy.

This next dish really stole the show for me and several of my guests. The octopus Provencal was beautifully presented in a cast iron skillet on top of a savory Romesco sauce.  This was our second octopus dish for the evening, which was a display of a different cooking technique as well as flavor profiles.  The octopus in both dishes was cooked perfectly,  it really depends on personal preferences of course. The Provencal style Octopus was slow poached (perhaps in olive oil) and garnished with a garden of fresh herbs and oven dried tomatoes.  The gorgeous roasted pepper sauce was so unbelievably full of flavor, I could have licked that skillet clean! Instead I ended up sopping up whatever was left over with a thick slice of bread, I guess it was the civilized thing to do:) 

Pictured below is a medley of  cauliflower,  mandarin, and almond delicately placed on top of one another with a light drizzle of olive oil and dash of salt and pepper.  This is the epitome of beauty in simplicity, with just a few ingredients this salad was able to create memories that will last a lifetime! The little mandarin segments added a touch of bright citrussy flavor against the shaved wholesome pieces of colorful cauliflower which created something very unique, and is why I fell in love with La Serre.

If there is one thing I have changed my opinion about ever since living in Dubai, it's lamb.  Often reluctantly ordered for the sake of variety has now become one of the items on my standing order at select restaurants including this one.  Whether I am making it at home or enjoying it at my favorite restaurants, it really comes down to the execution of this dish that can make or break your relationship with this particular protein.  The mini lamb cutlets at La Serre are cooked to an exact medium temperature (or whatever you prefer) and seasoned to perfection.  In fact there was nothing more it needed, just the lamb on it's own was enough to keep you coming back for more.

Under the pasta offerings was the infamous truffled rigatoni.  Althoughh we are not in peak truffle season at the moment, one of my guests insisted on ordering this delectable dish.  The cream sauce was smooth and the pasta was cooked al dente, with the thinly shaved summer truffle on top, you couldn't imagine anything tasting better than this.  I can safely put this in the Mediterranean comfort food category. It's one of those dishes that brought a smile to everyone's face upon first bite

My only complaint about these beautifully grilled tiger prawns was that there weren't enough! Two pieces per order is all you will get, so plan your meal accordingly.  The buttery herbed crumbs on top of the succulent seafood was just divine. As fresh as you can get in this city the prawn twins didn't need anything else to help them shine.

Dessert is a whole different story at La Serre, and it begin with is this Black Forest Cake.  I have not come across this classic dessert menu item too often here in the UAE, or at least anyone that does it right.  I would expect nothing less from the technically proficient team at this modern French bistro who did the Germans proud with the execution of this confectionery treat. The flaky chocolate nestled on top of the whipped cream followed by a layer of chocolate cake with sour cherry filling added just the right texture when you bit into this cake. 

The Rum Baba was next to arrive at the table along with the Tiramisu (pictured in the back).  Both were equally tasty but it's difficult to compare the two.  The Baba is a yeast cake saturated with rum and sugar topped with cream and served with a passion fruit coulis. The Tiramisu is a classic Italian dessert made with egg yolks and Masacarpone cheese, espresso, lady fingers,and cocoa.  They both stood out in their own right, so it comes down to personal preference on which you prefer.  I went with both!

It was love at first bite......that is the only way to describe the apple tarte tatin at La Serre.  The tender caramelized apples with toasted cinnamon and sugar all encased by a delicious pastry shell was heavenly and worth going back for!  In fact I did go back a couple days later just for this dessert and to my disappointment, they had run out.  I was informed by the staff to pre-order this dessert next time I come in for dinner.  I guess it's a sign that everyone appreciates the simple things in life and understands how much TLC goes into creating a culinary masterpiece. 

The entire evening we spent at La Serre was an experience we will not soon forget.  We dined like kings and queens for almost 4 hours that night and were spoiled rotten by the well trained and knowledgeable staff.  As you can see by the image below we are smiling from cheek to cheek and continued to the following day.  Izu and his team have mastered the art and execution of these French/Mediterranean classics to the tee and I look forward to my return.