An unexpected Japanese gem at the top of the Radisson Royal

Despite the hustle and bustle below on the central artery of Dubai (Sheikh Zayed Road), it felt like we were sitting on top of the world at this sky high restaurant destination. Located on the 49th floor of the Radisson Royal is an elegant Far Eastern experience brought to you by a culinary master.  Executive Chef Song is Korean by ethnicity, but trained in Japan where he honed his skills in the art of Japanese style of cooking.  With meticulous precision and a highly developed palate, this chef pushed the limits with  just about everything you could imagine. 

 

After perusing the menu, I noted some items I thought would really put chef Song's skills to the test.  The first item, described as a Foie Gras with black truffle/leek, asparagus, orange and *Zzuma dressing sounded intriguing.  With the exception of a hand full of modern Japanese restaurants (including Zuma in Dubai) most of the foie gras dishes I've enjoyed are at French style eateries.  I thought it would be especially interesting to see this particular execution with the listed combination of eclectic ingredients.

*later we came to find out "Zzuma" dressing was a traditional Japanese Teriyaki sauce with added sugar, that has been caramelized.  

 Arriving at the table with a small glass covering, our inventive appetizer was "smoked" for an added effect and aroma.  I find the smoke more of an aesthetic element which adds the wow factor upon presentation.  It doesn't actually contribute to the over all taste of the dish, but makes for more of a sensory experience. However, this dish didn't need much in terms of tricks since the quality of the ingredients and execution spoke for itself.

The perfectly seared medallion of luxurious foie gras, coated in the ever so sweetly caramelized teriyaki sauce, with the delicate burnt orange segments and asparagus spears all came together harmoniously.  The final touch of the leeks and pink peppercorns on top added the freshness and a slight kick to balance out the dish.  Not only was this extremely satisfying to my palate, but a visual masterpiece by Chef Song.

The next items to arrive at the table were a selection of Maki rolls plus a sweet soy and seafood consomme. The maki were rolled and presented creatively on the plate along with the appropriate garnish.  Fresh and balanced with the soft well seasoned rice, nori, and seafood accompaniments, they all possessed their own unique profiles and represent authentic Japanese with honor.  The seafood consomme was subtle in flavor and might have been better served first, before the meal.  The fragrant broth with hints of ginger and soy were a magical combination, but after the powerful foie gras and flavorful variety of maki, it couldn't hold up at against the rest of the items on the table.   

Our next course was ordered reluctantly from my side, having seen this item featured and reformatted across the UAE (similar to the Miso Cod trend), people have rarely done it the right way.  And even though the mention of "wasabi prawns" tends to make me cringe, my guest insisted on an order of these.  Dramatics aside, when this dish arrived the table I was completely blown away!  The little crunchy prawn nuggets on top of the velvety (perfectly balanced) wasabi mayo was truly an unexpected treat.  Topped with fresh daikon tendrils and a chiffonade of seaweed, Chef Song thought of everything and has created something very unique with a dish I had completely written off.  The perfectly crisp texture of the tempura batter was just the right amount of coating for the sweet prawns cuddling inside.  What really stood out was the play on textures and flavors here, and although the wasabi was present, it was not overwhelming. 

For the main course we decided on the wagyu beef with a miso leek sauce, which came highly recommended by the staff.  What I found particularly interesting is that the staff did not ask a temperature for the meat, and in my eyes, that is breaking one of the cardinal rules in order taking etiquette.  UNLESS of course, the chef prepares it based on his recommendation, which was exactly the case here. Presented in what looked like a dried tobacco leaf, the wagyu tenderloin was cooked to a perfect medium. The savory and tender chunks of seared red meat paired with the sweet and salty miso leek was a heavenly combination, and an experience I look forward to going back for.

 The culinary team and front of house staff at The Radisson Royal hotel are top notch.  The restaurant not only specializes in sushi but they have an entire floor dedicated to Tepanyaki style of live cooking as well. Spanning over 3 floors, ICHO is not a small operation.  The price points are on par with other similar eateries in town, so you must prepare yourself for a higher end experience if dining in this elegant venue with a view.  Because it's still new on the culinary scene of Dubai, it will take some time for them to gain the recognition they deserve.  I highly recommend this restaurant if you are looking for a modern Japanese experience that "thinks outside the box" with creative culinary skills when it comes to execution and plating.

For more information on ICHO check out the Radisson Royal website:

http://www.radissonblu.com/royalhotel-dubai/restaurants